Costume Desires (I): Gainsborough & The Man In Grey


For almost a decade from the 1940s through to the 1950s a group of critically scorned British films proved to be the box-office hits of their day. High-flung over-wrought costume melodramas. Ingredients were basic: passion, romance, sadism, heroism and plenty of sex. Characters were forceful: dominant women, devoted lovers and violent, cold-hearted husbands. They arrived on screens at a time when Britain was entrenched in a desperate World War and longed for release.

The majority of the films were made by the productive and innovative Gainsborough Studios, located in Islington, North London. The company was established in the late 1920s by Michael Balcon and had been responsible for some of the most interesting films of' the 1930s including the lavish musical “Chu Chin Chow”, early Carol Reed efforts such as “Bank Holiday”, the Will Hay comedies, and Hitchcock's early British thrillers, “The Lady Vanishes” and “Young and Innocent”. However, it was upon the succession to administrative power of Edward Black and Maurice Ostrer that change was made.


Almost by accident, the rights to the novel 'The Man In Grey' was acquired and things were never to be the same. Perhaps success was the family atmosphere which the small studio was able to foster and sustain. On each film it’s essentially the same key technicians behind the camera, and the same regular stars and supporting cast in front. Though it was not all by design: wartime meant personnel was at a minimum and everyone was pitching in to help, a position further accentuated by relatively small budgets, and the necessity for productions to overlap.

Yet despite the constraints of money and manpower, one of the most impressive features of these films is a lush, dream-like veneer. Uniformly stunning to watch, they combine stark set design with stylish camerawork and opulent costumes to conjure up a distinctly sensual atmosphere, one that is deliberately unrealistic and overtly theatrical (indeed the costume designer Elizabeth Haffenden graduated from West End theatre). The look is never historically accurate, retaining modern influences so that the films seem to exist in some curious time warp. It lends them an ageless quality. None of which is to claim that the films need to be regarded as definitive cinematic masterpieces, simply that they should not be automatically dismissed, and that they deserve to be re-assessed as the entertainments their makers meant them to be.

Perhaps most of all, though, the Gainsborough melodramas are best remembered for the stars they created, a group of young talents who burst enthusiastically from the screen. The public was quick to respond: James Mason, the sexual, sadistic fiend; Stewart Granger, the dashing, well-mannered hero; Margaret Lockwood, the woman who knew what she wanted and how to get it; Phyllis Calvert, the resilient innocent tempted and preyed upon by evil; and Patricia Roc the bright epitome of the modem young woman.

Mason, Granger, Lockwood and Calvert were the four cornerstones of the films continued appeal. Indeed, their first film together, “The Man in Grey” (1943), immediately catapulted them to stardom. In terms of style, it perhaps lacks the panache of the later productions, but the involved, twisting narrative and emotional conflicts (characters are motivated through escalating degrees of lust, jealousy and pride) more than compensate. During the actual shooting, director Leslie Arliss said in an interview: ‘The background doesn't matter, it's the people you have in the foreground I want to find a human story about real people. I am not afraid of sentiment and am working to overcome shyness and to put unashamed feelings on the screen rather than to depend on speed or action.’ Little could he know, though, how phenomenally popular the results would be: audiences quickly helped it become the most financially successful film of the War.

The story involves the unhappy marriage of Clarissa (Phyllis Calvert.) and Lord Rohan (James Mason), both of whom are in love with other people: Calvert with an actor, Rokeby (Stewart Granger) and Mason with the cunning, vengeful Hesther (Margaret Lockwood). When Calvert decides that loyalty to the state of marriage supersedes her own feelings and refuses to elope with Granger, it all builds to a shattering climax, as Calvert is murdered by Lockwood who is in turn thrashed to death by Mason.

At the time cinemas were still packed with the heroics of British and American war movies, and only the determined, astute Maurice Ostrer believed he had a potentially hot property with Lady Eleanor Smith's novel. It was eventually made at a disused factory in Islington which had been transformed into Gainsborough's two sound stages out. The budget of £95,000 was one-third less than the average British production in 1943. It was released in August of that year and by the beginning of 1944 fan magazines were unanimous in bestowing on it Best Film awards.

Public reaction was particularly strong for Mason and Lockwood, although neither had originally intended to be in it: Margaret Lockwood said she was simply unprepared for such a nasty character, but finally realized it was too good a part; while James Mason had been originally cast in Granger's role, with Eric Portman set to portray Rohan, ‘the man in grey’.

 

The greatest uproar caused by the film came from the final confrontation scene, when Mason sadistically kills Lockwood with a whip. It created a whirlpool of outraged / excited letters from female fans convinced that Mason was like that in real life: ‘Are you really like that?’ ‘Do you treat your wife in the same way?' In the end the actor struck back and wrote a short article for the magazine Lilliput entitled ‘YES, I beat my wife’.

The whipping sequence is pure Gainsborough: beautiful people pictured in a glorious Regency setting, where emotions are liable to (and do) explode into sexual violence at any moment.



Films / January 8

My Octopus Teacher (2020) / Suspicion (1941) / Of Human Bondage (1934) /  Silver Linings Playbook (2012) / The Spider And The Fly (1949) / Mank (2020) / Waterloo Road (1944)

My Octopus Teacher (1940) Immaculately made and strikingly visualized, a damaged naturalist finds a form of redemption in the depths of a kelp forest through a relationship with an octopus. Even if the characterization tends towards projection, the slight documentary gains a surprising emotional heft and meaning.


Suspicion (1941) Uncertain thriller that places tender Joan Fontaine in the hands of rakish and perhaps muderous Cary Grant. The genial atmosphere and languid pacing subdue any sense of gnawing tension, though the end section builds up a head of unease. Final revelations can't help but feel a letdown.

Of Human Bondage (1934) More of a historical curiosity than a cohesive narrative, fragments of a storyline see Bette Davis' self-destructive waitress threatens to drag down Leslie Howard's idealistic Englishman. Isolated visuals and scenes maintain some potency.

Silver Linings Playbook (2012) Spirited performances and intelligent filmmaking embolden the drama and laughs as Jennifer Lewis and Bradley Cooper's damaged souls find a sense of resolution. Snappy and ragged, languid and propulsive, a romantic comedy in the best sense with a rousing finale.

The Spider And The Fly (1949) Always intriguing, often tense, a character-driven piece in which a romantic triangle underpins the manoeuvres between Paris police chief and an artful thief. Atmospherically lit and designed, the World War I setting provides a rich background and unexpected narrative twists.

Mank (2020) Sumptuously shot and precisely framed, glistening monochrome images and swirling music provide an immersive ride in 30s Hollywood. Yet nothing feels authentic, the widescreen views as uncomfortable as a miscast Gary Oldman. Amanda Seyfried is a piercing presence.

Waterloo Road (1944) Crisply shot and highly evocative in its south London locations, the slight story features John Mills going AWOL to rescue his wife from the greasy hands of Stewart Granger's archetypal spiv. Told with swift humour and wartime message, there's also an appealing grittiness.

Films / Janaury 1

I Am Mother (2019) / Madness Of The Heart (1949) / To Be Or Not To Be (1942) / Notorious (1946) / Rebecca (1940) / Rebecca (2020) / Under Capricorn (1949)

I Am Mother (2019) Smartly made film of design and ideas, with a confident pace and a twisting narrative that elevates the tension and allows for some bracing, visual scenes. Though the three characters lack character detail, future world questions on sinister AI remain potent.


Madness Of The Heart (1949) Unpersuasive fusion of Rebecca / Jane Eyre intrigues that misses the atmosphere and character ambivalence and flounders for a grip as blind and newly married Margaret Lockwood finds herself threatened by Kathleen Bryon's crazed new neighbor. Needed true commitment to its ludicrous narrative.

To Be Or Not To Be (1942) Maintaining a breezy balance between comedy and drama, a satire that skewers actors and Nazis with equal and effective glee. Carole Lombard and Jack Benny lead the terrific ensemble, piling up the laughs on a fragile narrative involving spies and the resistance in occupied Warsaw.

Notorious (1946) Hitchcock's mastery of technique and composition propels a sensual narrative of lovers and spies, of seduction and abuse, of secrets and lies. The sharp script takes Ingrid Bergman into the heart of Claude Rains' gang of Rio-based Nazis, a twisting narrative that never lets up until the last, defining image.

Rebecca (1940) Suffused with a dream-like atmosphere, ghosts and guilt swirl through Manderley's cavernous design, tormenting Joan Fontaine's timorous new Mrs de Winter and emboldening Judith Anderson's obsessive Mrs Danvers. Franz Waxman's score haunts our desires as much as the gorgeous visuals.

Rebecca (2020) Technically proficient, densely designed and containing some striking visuals, the latest adaptation is unfortunately flat, missing a singular tone and point of view. The actors flounder, ill-fitting the characters and missing the passion and mystery. The story creaks through the gears.

Under Capricorn (1949) Strangely inert and uninvolving, despite the swooning camera and rich Technicolor. Individual scenes see Ingrid Bergman and Joseph Cotton struggle to bring humanity to stilted dialog while the pressures of suppressed secrets and desires never truly convinces.

Films / December 25

Son Of Fury (1942) / Only The Brave (2017) / Whirlpool (1950) / The Prom (2020) / The Razor's Edge (1946) / The Seventh Veil (1945) / Time Trap (2017)

Son Of Fury (1942) Rousingly made, fleet-footed historical tale of revenge and South Seas harmony, with luxurious production values as gorgeous as its cast. Amid the spectacle and lush visuals, there's even time for a discussion of inequality while a witty Dudley Digges is an Act 3 scene-stealer.

Only The Brave (2017) With intoxicating images that simultaneously capture the beauty and danger of fire, a technically consummate production with likeable performances building a close sense of community and deepening true-life tragedy. A finely crafted tale that dovetails epic heroism with personal loss.

Whirlpool (1950) Increasingly bonkers narrative elevated by Gene Tierney's kleptomania minded victim of snarling Jose Ferrer's murderous hypnotist. Some smart dialog and atmospheric moments amid the B movie hysteria provide minor diversions before a suitably melodramatic finale.

The Prom (2020) A captivating musical with heart to spare. Thematically uneven, narratively messy, carried by a parade of genuine performances, catchy songs and energetically choreographed, glossily designed sequences. Its all-inclusive finale can't help but swell up emotions.

The Razor's Edge (1946) Lusciously produced, with extended sequences of pure cinema, a traumatized war veteran travels to Paris and the Himalayas to find meaning to life. Visual beauty contrasts with often clunky dialog, though the tragic souls of Gene Tierney and Anne Baxter pierce the worthy ideas.

The Seventh Veil (1945) Seductively shot with a pervading sense of gothic romance, a wickedly enjoyable tale as repressed Anne Todd cracks under the glare of brooding James Mason. Though it falters during the third act, hugely satisfying melodramatic nonsense, expertly orchestrated.

Time Trap (2017) Technically proficient, narratively jumbled, young cave explorers are lost in time and battle the past and future. Revelations are less surprising than confusing and the story rhythms dry out any tension, denying potentially interesting details from gaining any dramatic impact.

Films / December 18

Once Upon A Time In The West (1968) / A Bridge Too Far (1977) / Hillbilly Elegy (2020) / Women In Love (1969) / Ofrenda A La Tormenta (2020) / The Savage Bees (1976) / The Incredible Melting Man (1977) / Ava (2020)

Once Upon A Time In The West (1968) From the opening shoot-out to the final, indelible shots, a classically framed tale of power and revenge, so full of the glorious, giddy potential of cinema (picture, sound, design, music) that each viewing is essential. A sun-blasted elegy for the western.

A Bridge Too Far (1977) A grim epic, with expansive, expertly crafted action sequences suffused with a sense of loss amid the blood and bullets. The all-star cast are grounded though the narrative of Allied mistakes and daring in Holland stretches endurance despite the spectacle.

Hillbilly Elegy (2020) Precisely made and told, with impressive, committed performances from Amy Adams and Glenn Close, yet offering nothing new in terms of social or political view, and nothing surprising in narrative or character development. Frustratingly inert and unemotional.

Women In Love (1969) Gorgeously and intelligently mounted, a mix of vibrantly imagined visuals and verbal ruminations on love and life, sometimes pretentious, often self-conscious, always strikingly lit and designed. Funny and beguiling, luminous performances add to the heady atmosphere.


Ofrenda A La Tormenta (2020) Final film in trilogy revolving around Marta Etura's tormented police inspector, a cleverly conceived fusion of the procedural and supernatural culminating with a satisfying conclusion. Amping up the shocks as well as the visual sheen, a seamless and intense thriller that accentuates the emotional.


The Savage Bees (1976) / The Incredible Melting Man (1977) Forever tied together as a UK double-bill release, two films with titles that explain exactly what you get. Minor efforts with little suspense or narrative comprehension though plenty of gratuitous buzzing and melting.


Ava (2020) Nobody sets out to make a poor film and the skill and professionalism of artists and technicians can always be recognised. The frustration is when lack of imagination flattens any narrative or visceral tension. Nothing here is remotely dramatic or believable.


Films / December 11

Blowup (1966)  / Sabotage (1936) / That Uncertain Feeling (1941) / The Boys From Brazil (1978) / Badland (2019) / The Ghost And Mrs Muir (1947) / Legado En Los Huesos (2019)

Blowup (1966) More a state of mind than a cohesive narrative, the composition of visuals and rhythm of the edit are gradually, giddily intoxicating as a photographer searches London for meaning to his images. Emerging from the decadence is the struggle for art and illusive reach for relevance. Compulsive viewing.


Sabotage (1936) A richly atmospheric London provides the backdrop for anarchist destruction. Dark humor, tense detail and a streamlined story are the bedrock for some thrilling sequences and a captivating Sylvia Sidney is the emotional, anguished heart that leads to murder.

That Uncertain Feeling (1941) Slight, meandering comedy of a marriage under threat from the routine of time, a mix of mannered dialogue and screwball antics. The touch is light and the cast is enjoyable, delivering on sufficient laughs and maintaining interest in a minor effort.

The Boys From Brazil (1978) Smartly produced and visualized, with intelligent and atmospheric production design, even as the plot to clone Hitler veers from drama to parody. Over-stuffed with stars and lost for a clear tone, though Jerry Goldsmith's thrilling score is a classic, embodying all the film reaches for.

Badland (2019) Solid, slow-burn storytelling of a troubled, weary avenger in post Civil War America, with beats as predictable as they are effective. Deliberately old fashioned thematically as well as cinematically, the locations and cast are attractive if fleeting in the memory.

The Ghost And Mrs Muir (1947) Delicate, sharply written romance, with strong Gene Tierney and Edna Best performances anchoring the emotion, and punctuated with smart lines and humor. Bernard Herrmann supplies the true soul, a score of yearning, passion and loss that sings with pure emotion.

Legado En Los Huesos (2019) Slickly produced and designed, performed with intensity, yet without a compelling drive. Narrative and supernatural twists prove more confusing than surprising, though the flooded town is impressively handled as the heroine chases her murderous mother.

Films / December 4

Slap Shot (1977) / Heaven Can Wait (1943) / Leave Her To Heaven (1944) / Contratiempo (2017) / Jamaica Inn (1939) / The Fury (1978) / Dragonwyck (1946)

Slap Shot (1977) Bleak realities of a failing industrial town finds release when local, losing hockey team turns to unrepentant violence (and even stripping). Riotously funny, brutally made and shot through with hard realism beyond the thrill. A terrific Paul Newman personifies the film.


Heaven Can Wait (1943) Playful and constantly amusing, peppered with sly wit and laugh out loud moments, Don Ameche's hero is as charming and devious as the narrative. Sumptuously lit and designed, with a magnetic Gene Tierney supplying the heart that can keep him out of hell.

Leave Her To Heaven (1944) Beautifully visualized and crafted genre mash up that gradually ensnares with its languid style contrasted with Gene Tierney's piercing intensity. The cool horror of the lake death is a perfect summation of fragile obsession splintered and lost to the depths.

Contratiempo (2017) An increasingly complex and extended play on the 'locked-room' murder mystery, the cold narrative dynamics and shifting truth tends to overshadow any character empathy, even as the intrigue and tension builds. Fernando Velazquez delivers another fine score.

Jamaica Inn (1939) After the impressively handled opening shipwreck, a curiously subdued and anonymous drama, especially considering the potential of pairing Charles Laughton and Robert Newton. Production values remain impressive. Maureen O'Hara provides the spark and grit.

The Fury (1978) With its visual flourishes and technical virtuosity, an always involving mix of thriller and horror, eventually jettisoning narrative and logic to whip up delirious blood-drenched dreams. Aided enormously by a glorious John Williams score, dark, lyrical and rousing.


Dragonwyck (1946) Though the titular house maintains a suitably oppressive presence, the story beats of Gothic romance hold few surprises. Individual performances and scenes provide efficient drama and the historical background is interesting. 'You can't marry a dream...'


Films: September 7 - 13

Young Sherlock Holmes (1985)  Speak No Evil (2024)  Drive-Away Dolls (2024)  The Runner (2026)  Den hemmelige kvinde (The Secret Woman)...